Techniques for Watering Grass

The obvious objective for lawn watering is to provide the maximum amount of moisture to enable the plant root system to thrive. Too little water is stressful to the grass and too much is wasting a valuable resource.

Here are a few simple lawn watering techniques. An in-ground sprinkler system if managed properly is one of the best ways to accomplish lawn watering to maximize growth and reduce water usage, however the expense of installing the system is high and most people use above ground sprinklers. This article is oriented to the use of above ground sprinklers.

There are several types of above ground sprinklers available. Basically they are the rotary type which covers a circular pattern, the oscillating type the moves back and forth or the soaker hose type that delivers water about three feet on each side of the line where the hose is laid. For a yard that is relatively square the oscillating sprinkler or soaker hose might deliver the best performance. For irregular shaped lawns the rotary type sprayer may be the most effective. In many cases a combination of the three will probably be best to insure that adequate moisture is delivered to the turf.

One has to experiment with location of sprinklers to achieve the maximum benefit. One way to insure that adequate water is being delivered is to place a few small cans (tuna fish or cat food), in different locations under the watering pattern and monitor how long it takes for the can to collect about a ½ inch of water. Grass generally requires about one inch per week of water to maintain a healthy root system and appearance. The edges of the spray pattern is where the least amount of water is generally delivered, so this is the area that requires special attention and may require some experimentation to insure effectiveness. When possible, one should insure that the water is sprayed in the lowest arc possible to minimize evaporation or the possibility of wind drift that will not benefit the area being watered. Watering in the early morning hours is best for this reason and a myriad of other reasons to promote a healthy lawn.

Taking a few minutes in the early spring to develop the best pattern for delivering adequate supplies of water to a lawn will reduce the effort involved and will reward the homeowner with a healthy and good looking lawn.

Water Your Grass Less

Selecting the appropriate type of grass to grow in your yard will make a significant difference in the amount of water that is necessary for lush growth. Warm season and cool season grasses require differing amounts of water to remain healthy. The far North and far South don’t provide many viable choices as one is virtually required to select a warm or cool season grass, however much of the United States is located in zones where either can thrive. Warm season grasses can be grown as far north as Southern New England, likewise cooler season grasses can be grown as far south as Georgia. Warmer season grasses generally require less water than the cool season grasses.

Lawns that require the least amount of water are affected by the particular type of grass grown and seed and sod producers are propagating many varieties that require relatively low soil moisture content to thrive and provide the lush lawn that is desirable by most home owners.

A couple of rules must be observed to reduce water requirements for healthy and lush turf.

1. Determine if a warm season grass (examples include Bermuda, Bahia, Zoysia, Buffalo) or cool season grass (Rye, Fescues, Bluegrass) will provide the best results.
2. Next one should should examine the different varieties that are available to insure that one or possibly a combination or grasses is selected that will stand up to the expected use ie. heavy use by children or pets or very light use.
3. Within each variety of grass there are some which are particularly adapted to tolerate drought or low water requirements. It is in this selection that will prove the most beneficial in the quest to minimize water usage. Some of the cool season grasses have particular characteristics that reduce water usage. One of the varieties called Rhizomatous Tall Fescue (RTF) requires considerably less water than other Fescues and in fact has been labeled as a “water saver”.
4. Warm season grasses tolerate drought much better than the cool season grasses and among those Zoysia seems to be the least demanding of water and if it starts to “brown” because of water deficiency, it will quickly respond to watering and green up quickly.
5. Be cognizant of shady area that require less water and adjust your watering pattern to conserve.
6. Water as early as possible during the day to achieve the maximum benefit and reduce evaporation.
7. Insure that thatch from lawn mowing does not build up to excessive levels as this will prevent water from reaching the root systems of your grass.
8. Consider using rain water catchment systems. This is especially effective for smaller lawns and the expense of establishment will often be off-set by reduced water bills as well as the satisfaction of knowing that you are being environmentally friendly.
9. Insure that run-off is eliminated by observing how the soil is soaking up the moisture. Stop watering if run-off is occurring and restart when the run-off recedes.
10. Don’t automatically water every 1-3 days if recent rain has produced adequate moisture.
11. Watering less frequently and more thoroughly will save water. Frequent light spraying is never an effective method as evaporation uses most of the water and root systems will become shallow and subject to disease, insects and stress.

Selecting the right grass for the right climate and applying a few simple common-sense rules will reduce lawn water requirements and produce a thick, healthy lawn.

How Much Water Does My Grass Need?

Here again there are several variables in play for successful lawn maintenance. The type of grasses being grown, the type of soil involved and local climatic conditions will dictate the amount of water that will be needed for a lawn to thrive.

During the summer months warm season grasses (examples include Bermuda, Bahia, Zoysia, Buffalo) will require less water than the cooler season grasses (Rye, Fescues, Bluegrass). During the cool months the warm season grasses have little need for water as they are dormant and the cool season grasses will only require water if a severe drought is occurring.

Essentially, during the summer months the root zones for cool season grasses should be moist to a level of 8-10 inches where the moisture level for warm season grasses may only extend 6-8 inches. One can determine the degree of moisture in the ground by digging a small hole or by inserting a probe in the ground. In most soils, a large screwdriver can be easily inserted into the ground to the desired depth to insure the soil is moist. If it is difficult to insert the screwdriver, it indicates that the soil has dried out and needs water. One should conduct this test in the Spring and then insure that the same degree of moisture is maintained throughout the summer months.

Maintaining a consistent moisture level will insure healthy turf. Don’t wait until the soil has completely dried out before beginning a watering program. Watering should begin as the warm months approach and remain consistent throughout the growing season. This will conserve water in the long run.

Watering should be scheduled every 2-3 days depending on the soil conditions, the amount of rain and the particular climate in the growing area. Watering should result in a thorough soaking (stop for about an hour and let the water soak in if run-off is occurring). Normally about ¼ to ¾ inch of water applied during each watering cycle will be sufficient to maintain the soil moisture to the desired depth. This moisture level should be tested periodically to insure that sufficient water in being applied. One can measure the amount of water being applied by simple placing a rain gage in the area being watered and monitoring the amount of time it takes to achieve ¼ to ¾ inch. Once the appropriate watering cycle is determined, it will require little or no monitoring.

If one has chosen a grass type that requires significant watering, it may be worthwhile to consider a grass type that requires less. There are both warm season and cool season grasses that that thrive on minimal amounts of water. A visit to the local golf course may provide a hint on the type of grass to grow in your particular area.

Best Time of Day to Water Grass

The best time to water grass, like so many things in life is dependent on circumstances. For established lawns the best time of day to water grass is in the early morning hours, preferably just before sunrise. This enables the water to soak through the soil and completely nourish the plant’s root system. Watering in the morning also minimizes the loss of moisture due to the higher temperatures during daylight hours and takes advantage of the normal morning calm from wind that may cause water to drift away from the target area. Evaporation is also minimized and morning watering enables the homeowner to take advantage of the effects of morning dew that already exists on grass blades. The natural ground shade afforded by the grass will enable the soil to dry out slowly throughout the day. Without an automatic sprinkler system this early morning watering may present a challenge. The point is that the earlier one waters, the better it is for the lawn. Under all circumstances, watering in the evenings should be avoided. Evening watering causes the ground to remain moist and gives rise to a number of diseases that will weaken root systems and cause premature browning or even loss of plants. Perhaps the most prevalent example of available to most home owners of good turf maintenance is demonstrated
by the grounds keepers on golf courses throughout the country. They have immense sums of money invested in maintaining healthy turf and one can readily note that they water their established turf exclusively in the morning.

There is always an exception to the rule and certainly there is one for those that are just beginning to establish a lawn or have areas where seeding is being done. Under these circumstances it is preferable to water newly seeded areas several times a day for best results. Seedlings need to remain moist for germination to occur. It is critical to keep the seeds or early sprouts moist. One should attempt to control “puddling” as it will often cause seeds to wash away and result in bare spots. Additionally, the goal is to keep the seeds mouist and it will waste water to apply too much.

The objective of water established lawns is to insure the water is available for the root systems , while the objective of watering newly seeded areas is to keep the seed moist. Therefor a considerable less quantity of water should be used for newly seeded areas.

How much Lawn Fertilizer Do I Need?

Cool season grasses and warm season grasses have different times for application and vary somewhat in the quantity of lawn fertilizer that should be applied. Note that the number of times that fertilizer is applied will have a direct impact on the quality of the lawn. Homeowners should measure the square feet of their lawn area to determine exactly how much fertilizer is needed. Simply pace off your yard and multiply the length times the width to determine square feet. For a relatively square yard this is a simple exercise. For irregular shapes it might be best to divide the yard into square areas for measurement.

Make sure and keep the square footage numbers close at hand as over fertilization will result in wasted time and expense as well as contribute to the pollution of water supplies. The tables below will provide a guide for those attempting to determine exactly how much should be applied.

Cool Season Grasses

Since lawn fertilizer is available either in immediate release or slow release types, the following tables apply. Note the minimum and maximum amounts depending on the lawn quality desired. Please keep in mind that there should be at least 4 weeks between successive applications of fertilizer

Nitrogen Application by Month – Number of Pounds per thousand square feet – Immediate Release

Desired Lawn Quality	Sep	Oct	Nov	May 15 - June 15
Minimal	0	1	0	0 - 1/2
Acceptable	1	1	0	0 - 1/2
Lush	1	1	1	0 - 1/2

Nitrogen Application by Month – Number of Pounds per thousand square feet – Slow Release

Desired Lawn Quality	Sep	Oct	Nov	May 15 - June 15
Minimal	1.5	0	0	0
Acceptable	1.5	1.5	0	0
Lush	1.5 - 2	1.5	0	0 - 1.5

Warm Season Grasses
Nitrogen fertilization of warm season grasses using immediately available fertilizers
Nitrogen Application by Month – Number of Pounds per thousand square feet – Immediate Release

Desired Lawn Quality	April	May	June	July/Aug
Minimal	1	1	0	0
Acceptable	1	1	1	0
Lush	1	1	1	1

Nitrogen Application by Month – Number of Pounds per thousand square feet – Slow Release

Desired Lawn Quality	April/May	June/July
Minimal	2	0
Acceptable	1.5	1.5
Lush	2	2

In summary, measure your yard as precisely as possible and apply fertilizers in the recommended quantities. Keep in mind that there is considerable time and expense involved in the health and maintenance of a well manicured lawn, but the self-satisfaction of enjoyment is well worth the effort.

Choosing a Fertilizer Spreader

Spreading fertilizer will occur several times a year for the homeowner that desires a healthy, well manicured and weed-free lawn.

Essentially there are two types of fertilizer spreaders. They are the drop-spreader and the rotary style (sometimes referred to as a “broadcast” spreader). The drop spreader is better suited to smaller yards with few obstacles as it requires relatively straight lines to be followed in a overlapping pattern. As can be determined by the name, the drop spreader in fact drops the fertilizer or weed and feed product directly underneath it. A series of holes (20 or more) underneath the spreader meters the amount of fertilizer that is applied. This is by far the most precise way to apply fertilizer.

The rotary spreader “broadcasts” (slings) the fertilizer product outward from it in a pattern that generally encompasses a circle of about 3 feet in diameter. This spreader has just one hole underneath that drops the fertilizer onto a platform which rotates thus “broadcasting” the product in a predictable pattern. This pattern of spreading does not achieve the same degree of accuracy that is accomplished by the drop spreader, but will do well for most large yards. This pattern also means that less steps are required to complete the application process.

A small yard where a high degree of accuracy for the application of fertilizer is desired would probably dictate a drop spreader whereas a larger yard with several trees might be better suited to a rotary spreader. A yard that has many garden beds may be most suitable for a drop spreader as the precise application will prevent any product from getting into garden or vegetable beds as it may with a rotary spreader. Weed and feed fertilizers that get into garden or flower beds will prevent or kill desirable plants.

In either case, to insure proper coverage of the lawn area it is important to make parallel applications in one direction and then apply again in a path that is perpendicular to the first. This insures that all areas are well covered and prevents either over fertilizing or under fertilizing. Areas that have been missed or over applied will become obvious in about a week to 10 days.

In all cases make sure that the spreader is well washed after use. Fertilizers are corrosive and metal parts will deteriorate quickly if the spreader is not washed well. Plastic is often used in making spreaders and will normally last longer than metal ones.

Weed and Feed Fertilizer

Weed and feed lawn fertilizer is plentiful and in most cases when applied properly will contribute positively to a lush lawn. They contain nitrogen, phosphate and potash which are essential for lawn growth together with a herbicide. Again, it is important to select a product that is designed for either warm or cool season grasses.

Typically the Spring fertilization period is best for applying these products. The first weed and feed product to be applied to the lawn contains an herbicide known as a preemergent herbicide, that is it prevents the weeds from successfully germinating and thus prohibits weeds from starting. These products are generally successful in preventing early weeds, but as summer approaches weeds will emerge and become more noticeable.

During the late Spring and early-Summer another weed and feed application may be necessary which includes a herbicide designed to kill weeds that have successfully emerged.

Weed and feed products will generally kill a wide range of different types of weeds, however they will generally not prevent or kill crabgrass – the most pesky of all weeds. Consumers should examine lawn fertilization products to insure that a crabgrass pre-emergent is among the herbicides in the package or purchase a separate crabgrass preventer if the desire is to eliminate this weed. Following recommended procedures for the application of a crabgrass pre-emergent will generally prevent crabgrass during the entire growing season. Typically nature gives us a clue as to when to apply the first application.
When one sees daffodils, forsythia, and dogwoods begin to bloom it is time to apple the pre-emergent. The early time frame for application is signaled by the blooming of Forsythia and daffodils. The blooming of Dogwood trees represents the last opportunity for application.

Warm season grasses essentially start growing from the roots up as the warmer months approach. It is important to read product labels carefully to insure that any weed killers or crabgrass preventer’s will not stunt the growth of any warm season grasses. One should be particularly careful when applying these products to St Augustine grass.

In summary weed and feed products make the fertilizer application process much simpler and easier. One should follow product labeling procedures and if applied in the right amount at the right time the homeowner will be rewarded with a beautiful lush lawn.

Best Time to Fertilize Your Lawn

The schedule for the application of lawn fertilizer is dependent upon the type of grass that is being grown. Cool season grasses (Fescues, Rye, Bluegrass) have a different growing cycle than the warm season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia, St. Augustine) and therefor need to be maintained on a different schedule.

Cool Season Grasses (Fescue, Rye Grass, Bluegrass)

The most important time for fertilization of cool season grasses is during the fall from late August through November. During this time period the grass is beginning its period of dormancy and it is critical to strengthen the root system so that a healthy plant can emerge in the Spring. The next most important time for fertilization is during the the months of May – June in the Spring. This application should be a little lighter that the fall application. The object is to promote greening and feed the roots without encouraging so much growth of the leaves that the root system becomes weakened. Too much fertilization in the Spring can actually weaken the plant and encourage the emergence of weeds during the Summer months. If a second application of fertilizer is necessary either in the Fall or Spring, it should not be accomplished sooner than 4 weeks after the first application.

Since Fall application is the most important there is an acronym that is often used to remind one of the cycle times. SON – standing for September-October-November is a useful for remembering when to fertilize. Remember that there should be at least 4 weeks between applications.

Warm Season Grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia, St. Augustine)

Warm season grasses respond best when fertilized between early April and mid-August. Since warm season grasses grow most vigorously during the summer months it is more important for these types of grasses to be fertilized at this time as opposed to the fall like the cool season grasses. The root systems will be strengthened and depending on the type of grass the rhizomes and stolons will be encouraged to spread and propagate new growth. Here again any successive applications should be spaced at least 4 weeks apart.

At a minimum cool season grasses should be fertilized twice annually - once in the fall (the heaviest application) and again in the Spring. Successive applications can be applied depending on the quality and use of the grass being maintained.

Warm season grasses need a minimum of at least one application of fertilizer during the early growing season. Here again successive applications can be applied based on the use and quality of the lawn desired.

Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass is the true American grass and as the name implies it is native to the great plains where this grass provided feed for the immense herds of buffalo that once occupied this region of our country. It is also the turf that provided the building material for the sod homes constructed by the first settlers of the Great Plains.

Buffalo grass grows extremely well in the Great Plains of the United States from central Texas to Northern Montana. It is well adapted to survive prolonged drought and extreme temperatures. It is also well suited to areas that receive light to moderate use. One should be aware that this grass will experience deterioration if subjected to heavy use. The famous “dust bowl” of the 1930’s was created because of over grazing in the prairie region and the concomitant loss of ground cover.

This grass is the ideal choice for one who desire a native species that has developed genetic qualities that will insure vigorous growth and survival in a harsh environment. Buffalo grass is a fine leaved perennial that possesses a pleasing blue-green color. It requires minimal maintenance in the form of water or fertilizer. In fact, over watering may encourage other grasses or weeds to infiltrate into established buffalo grass turf. Buffalo grass does not do well in shady areas as one could expect of a grass that is native to the Great Plains.

Buffalo grass can be established through the use of seed, sod, sprigs or plugs. As with many other grasses, like bermuda grass and St Augustine grass, it spreads through the use of above ground runners called stolons. It does not possess any underground capability to spread. This inability to spread through underground runners called rhizomes means that buffalo grass will not threaten adjacent garden or flower beds or even more desirable grasses that may be contiguous to the buffalo grass.

Buffalo grass is generally low growing and reaches a maximum height of about 8-10 inches. It can be left to grow naturally in fields or mowed to a height of about two inches for lawns. Golf courses may mow to a height of about one inch for fairways and allowed to grow higher in areas designated as “rough”.

Low maintenance is the most significant advantage of buffalo grass. Minimal water, minimal fertilizer and minimal mowing is what might attract an individual to grow this grass in their fields or yards.

Bahia Grass

Bahia grass is a warm season course grass that grows well along the southern coastline, in Florida and southern California. This grass is normally grown from seed or sod and possesses excellent tolerance to drought, insect and disease infestations. It is normally light green in color, but will turn several shades darker when fertilizer is applied. It grows vigorously and may require more frequent mowing than other warm season grasses during the summer months. It grows very well on sandy or infertile soils, but will not perform well if the soil is too acidic.

It’s advantage as a warm season grass is in its’ ability to withstand drought conditions and the fact that it is not prone to die-back caused by insects or disease. Establishing a lawn or pasture is a bit slower than most and will take several months to produce an excellent ground cover, but once established it is durable and will withstand moderate traffic. Bahia grass is a bit unusual in that it’s root system may extend seven to nine feet into the ground. This characteristic is what provides it with it’s exceptional drought resistance. Another advantage of Bahia grass is that it grows as well in the shade as it does in full sun.

A properly maintained Bahia lawn will generally crowd out weeds which is the preferred method of weed control as Bahia grass does not respond well to herbicides often used to control unwanted intrusions. The fact is that weed control herbicides may in fact kill or retard healthy Bahia grass growth so one should be judicious in herbicide applications. If a Bahia turf begins to become a little yellow it is a sign that an iron nutrient needs to be added to the soil. This generally will occur during the spring or fall and an application of this element will return the grass to a pleasing light green color.

As with other grasses there are several varieties of Bahia grass that have been developed to suit local climatic conditions. The Argentine variety is well suited for growth in the deep south while the Pensacola variety is generally suited to regions further north which may be susceptible to frost or cool spells.

The Bahia grasses are great choices for areas where warmer season grasses thrive and will provide a lush covering of turf.

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