The Benefits of Aerating Your Lawn

The major benefit of aeration is to loosen compacted soils. If the ground is not composed of clay soils, subjected to children or animals moving about or automobiles that may drive on it, the lawn may not require aeration. Ground subjected to winter freezing and thawing or that is home to a healthy earthworm population may remain open and not require aeration. Wet areas often become compacted and will need to be aerated. A simple inspection can determine if aeration is necessary. Soil that is subjected to heavy foot traffic should probably be aerated annually.

Aerating opens the soil by pulling out small plugs of soil about 3-5 inches deep and then depositing them on the surface to eventually decompose and disintegrate back into the ground. Make sure you leave them on the ground to decompose. This provides the opportunity for the grass root systems to acquire the nutrients, water and air that are essential for growth. Loose soils allow the roots systems to penetrate more deeply into the soil and become stronger and more resilient if they have to fight off the effects of drought or disease. Soil microorganisms become more abundant and help in breaking down and preventing the formation of thatch in the lawn. Aerating destroys heavy thatch in the coring process and aids in adding this nutrient rich compost back into the soil.

Aerating is an ecological friendly endeavor. Water is more readily absorbed by loose soils. Fertilizers which are subject to run off and contaminate adjoining water sources are less likely to run off because the loose soil more readily absorbs the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that is contained in the fertilizers that are normally applied to lawns. Obviously the more fertilizer that ultimately is absorbed by the root system the more healthy the grass will be. Pesticides that may be applied to a lawn also become more effective in loose soil. Earth worm activity is promoted and after several succeeding years of aeration, it is likely that a year can be skipped.

Seeding after aeration will produce excellent growth and any compost that is spread will settle into the small holes as a result of the coring process and add substantial fertility to the soil.

Aerating is a win-win proposition for the soil and the environment as well as the owner of a lawn that will be the envy of all who gaze upon it.

Lawn Aerating

Compacted soils cause a severe strain on grass and could spell disaster for a lush lawn. Grass requires air to grow and areas that are compacted from play, pets, vehicles or wet soil conditions may suffer the effects of compaction. Clay soils are especially susceptible to compaction. To determine if aeration is necessary, one can inspect the grass. If more than an inch or thatch is present, it probably is signaling the need for aeration. Another way to determine if aeration is necessary is to dig up a small section of turf about 4-6 inches deep and examine the length of the grass roots. The roots should extend greater than two inches. The deeper the root system is, the healthier your grass will be. Aerating will open up the soil and foster lush growth and healthy grass.

Once it is determined that aeration is necessary, one must determine how to do it. The preferred method is called “core aeration”. It requires a special machine that removes small plugs of soil as it moves along. These plugs are normally ½ to ¾ of an inch in length and are generally spaced 6-8 inches apart. These are generally heavy machines which are available at rental centers and it will take a small truck or trailer to move it. Often rental centers will deliver the machine to you. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the machine before beginning. They are not hard to operate, but a short orientation from a rental center employee might avoid a disaster if you haven’t used an aerator before. The machine is self propelled and moves the same as a lawn mower although it is a bit heavier. It is recommended that the lawn be “cored” first in one direction and then again perpendicular to the original line of coring. The small plugs of soil will be deposited on the ground and in a week or two will gradually disintegrate and disappear. Do not aerate if the soil is excessively wet. It should be a bit damp though as this facilitates the process. After aerating an opportunity is provided to over seed your lawn or to apply a top dressing if needed.

The core aerator will generally extend several inches into the ground. Be careful if you have cable systems, electrical wires or irrigation systems close to the surface. An aerator will destroy an sprinkler head if it is run over it.

Aeration promotes a healthy lawn and vigorous growth, the benefits of aeration when it is necessary will be easily recognizable during the growing season and you will be rewarded with a lush lawn.

Thatch Removal - Dethatching

If you have a lawn that is too large to use a stiff tined rake for thatch removal there are other methods that are a bit easier and will accomplish the task with relative ease. Special blades are made for lawnmowers that can be purchased at your local hardware store. Essentially there are tines on the blades that extend from the lawn mowing blade vertically so they reach the ground. You then simple push your mower as if you were mowing the grass. It is recommended that you try this first in an area farthest away from view to experiment with getting the lawn mower height adjustment correct as well as the RPM on the mower that works best to remove the thatch and not remove excessive amounts of healthy grass. Rotary lawnmower dethatching blades normally cost around $25-35 dollars and will last a lifetime unless they are subjected to abuse.

Do not begin to remove thatch if the soil is wet. Wait until it is relatively dry to avoid pulling up the grass you are nurturing.

It is recommended that you cut your lawn to about half of its normal height before using your rotary mower with a dethatching blade. You can also use a mower that is specifically designed to remove thatch. These are normally available at local rental centers. In every case, one should be aware that this method will temporarily scar your lawn. If you have an abnormal amount of thatch, such as more than an inch, it is recommended that you not attempt to remove all the thatch at one time. Instead remove the thatch by mowing in one direction and then mow perpendicular the next time and remove the thatch in two layers. This will avoid doing permanent harm to your lawn Don’t be worried. It will look bad temporarily, but will recover rapidly. New shoots will begin to grow after the ground is opened up to enable this new growth. This might also be the ideal time to over seed or top dress your lawn. Removing thatch is normally not an annual event and should only be necessary every 3-5 years or perhaps longer. If you are noting a build-up of thatch sooner than that, you should consider bagging your clippings occasionally or check to see that your mulching lawn mower blade is working properly.

You will note that the thatch that is removed will accumulate on you lawn and it needs to be raked and placed in a mulch pile to insure it doesn’t infiltrate back into your lawn again.

What is Lawn Thatch?

Spring arrives in just a few days and it’s time to take a look at the lawn and see what’s necessary to make sure it will be that carpet of luxury we all want. One of the things that can spell disaster to a lawn is the accumulation of heavy thatch. Thatch is organic matter like leaves and grass clippings that have not fully decayed. While it’s good to let mulched grass clippings remain on the lawn to add organic matter, sometimes all the clippings or the mulched leaves from fall don’t break down and a build-up of thatch occurs.

Thatch prevents moisture, air and even fertilizer from reaching the grass roots and will cause the grass to become weak and subject it to pests or diseases as the growing season progresses . Springtime is the best time to take a look. Call it your grasses annual exam. Simply bend over and become one with your grass. Part the blades and examine below them to determine how thick the thatch might be. If it’s over a ½ inch you could have a problem. If it’s greater than a one inch, you need to take immediate action. However, there is a relatively simple cure – remove it.

If you don’t have a large lawn, you can use a stiff tined rake and give your lawn a vigorous combing. It will take a bit of effort, but your grass will be appreciative and will reward you with vigorous growth. Make sure that while you are removing the thatch, you are not pulling up too much grass. It’s almost impossible to completely eliminate some grass from being pulled out, but you want to make sure it is minimal. The thatch you have pulled up will be partially decayed organic matter, so it is a good idea to add it to your mulch pile. If you don’t have a mulch pile this could be the start.

You should be able to see the bare ground after thatch removal and your lawn may look a bit ragged after you complete the task, but you have provided a great opportunity for new shoots to develop and will see the results of your efforts in a week or two. Additionally you have made it possible for the grass to obtain the water, fertilizer and air that it needs to thrive. Removing the thatch will insure a healthy lawn throughout the growing season.

Preparing Your Lawn for Grass Seed

In the event you’re overseeding an existing lawn you’ll want to mow your grass as short as possible. If you have any bare spots in your lawn you’ll want to loosen the soil to promote germination in those areas. Next you’ll want to remove any dead grass or debris that has collected. If you have any low spots or have water collecting now is a good time to level these spots with a grader or even fill with some dirt or sand depending on the situation.

Another excellent but not necessary step is to aerate the lawn. Spreading the seed with a broadcast spreader will promote the most even spread of grass seed, however any spreader will work. You’ll want to ensure you don’t allow more than about 16 seeds per square inch of soil. This will cause the seeds to fight for space and nutrients and will result in seedlings dying off and will produce thin spot in your lawn. Even seeding your bare spots by hand is acceptable.

A light application of starter fertilizer is recommended to promote the health of your lawn as it germinates. It is recommended to cover any bare spots to keep the seed from washing away. Just make absolutely certain if you cover your bare spots with hay that all the seed heads have been removed, otherwise you’ll have a hay field in your front lawn come the spring.

The most important step of the process is to ensure you keep the roots moist. You’ll want to water for shorter periods of time but more frequently. Keeping the seed and roots moist will enhance the germination of the grass seed.

Preparing Soil for Grass Seed

If you have a brand new lawn you’ll want to ensure that you’ve loosen 2-3 inches of soil. This will give you a chance to find and remove any debris including sticks, stones, wood. You’ll also want to make certain they are no large clumps of soil throughout the area you’ll be seeding.

This is also a great time to ensure your lawn is nice and level. Water should not stand more than 24 hours after a decent rainfall. If it does, it will be much easier to take care of this issue now before you have a pristine lawn.

When spreading grass seed across a large area is best to use a broadcast spreader, but any spreader will work. You’ll want to ensure you have approximately 16 seeds per square inch. Any more than that and the seedlings will be fighting from room and nutrients. This will cause your lawn to come in thin in areas where seeds are overcrowded.

Ideally, you’ll want to cover the seeds with ¼ of soil. Also covering the seed bed with a grass seed accelerator will keep the seeds in place and retain moisture. You could also use hay to cover a newly seeded lawn, just ensure the seed heads have been removed from the hay before bailing or you’ll grow a hay field in your front lawn. A light coat of a starter fertilizer will provide some slow release nutrients for your developing lawn.

Lastly, you’ll want to make sure you water your lawn often. Ideally you’d water less, but more frequently so no seed is washed away. You’re just looking to keep the soil moist to enhance the germination of the grass seed.

Buying the Best Grass Seed

After you’ve figured out which type of grass seed you need to buy you’ll want to do plenty of research. All plants, including grass, are made up of cultivars (specific type of plant that has characteristics which distinguish it from other plants of the same species). Knowing which types of cultivars are in the grass seed you’re buying gives you worthwhile information and more importantly is an indication of the quality of grass seed.

Believe it or not the bag of grass seed you end up buying will have some level of ‘weed seed’. Inspect the label carefully to find out just how many weeds you’ll be spreading across your lawn. This is also another good reason for spreading premergent herbicide. Anyway, you obviously want to find the grass seed with the least amount of weed seed. An acceptable level of weed seed is 0.3%.

Remember a few years ago when Budweiser released their “Born On Dating”? We are a culture inundated with freshness and expiration dates. Well it’s no different with grass seed. The fresher your bag of grass seed the greater rate of germination.

5 Simple Winter Lawn Care Tips

Now that you’re out of your weekly lawn mowing chores it’s time to get your lawn ready for the long, cold winter months. Taking the time to prepare your lawn for December, January, and February can give your lawn the jump start it needs in the spring.
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