Ready to join the rest of the crowd and go green? You should really consider a Neuton Mower!

I recently had the opportunity to get my hands on a brand new Neuton CE 6.2 mower. This is the latest release from Neuton boasting a 19″ cut and a 36V sealed lead acid battery. More impressive than its wide cut and high powered battery is its ability to virtually eliminate harmful emissions. Believe it or not, your traditional gas powered mower will produce its weight in emissions every year. The Neuton mower is able to completely eliminate these emissions by running a battery that only costs $0.10 to charge. The question most of you are probably wondering is will it cut my grass? Read the rest of the review to find out!

Unboxing the Neuton Mower

The Neuton business model is that of direct consumer sales, which means you can only purchase these mowers online or over the telephone. You’re not going to get your hands on one at your local home improvement stores anytime soon. The major advantage to this strategy is that you don’t have to haul your new mower home from the store. The big brown truck will drop it off on your doorstep.

Popping the top on the box you’ll find a very well packaged mower. There is absolutely no assembly necessary. By dropping the back flap off the box you’ll be able to roll your new Neuton mower right out of the box. Straighten the handle with just a ’snap’ and you’re ready to mow! Unfortunately you’ll have to wait 24 hours to get the battery charged up and ready for its first workout.

The owners manual is well written in plain, easy to understand, English. After some of the manuals I’ve read, I’m grateful for a well written manual. Other than the manual you’ll find the necessary mulching attachments and a grass catcher that attaches with ease.

The Neuton Mower Experience

Charging the Battery

With the removal of a simple cap you’re able to plug the battery in and begin the initial 24 hour charge. The battery can be charged while still installed in the mower or easily removed by turning the latch and putting the battery on your garage workbench. The only minor issue with battery charging is the lack of status that the battery has been fully charged. There is however an led to indicate your battery is actually charging. At the end of the day you’re going to plug the mower in and forget about it until the next time you mow.

Starting the Mower

Tired of wondering if your gas powered mower will start next season? Tired of pulling your arm out of socket with a hard to start mower? Enter Neuton! Install the safety key, and pull the trigger. This baby purrs like a well fed kitten. I expected the ease of starting this mower, but the first time I started it, I was impressed.

Almost more impressive than the ease of starting was the noise or should I say the lack thereof. Neuton claims their mower is half as loud as a traditional gas mower. This claim is well founded. I just happened to wake up a bit early Saturday morning. My wife asked where I was going and I told her to mow the grass. She said “You can’t mow this early in the morning” and I said “what are you talking about, I’m using the Neuton mower”. “Oh! Nevermind” as she put her head back into the pillow. Even my wife noticed the lack of noise produced by this mower.

Mowing the Grass

The lack of emissions, easy to start, and less noisy mower are all great selling points, but if this thing can’t cut the grass, what good is it. I gave this mower a run for its money as I’m in the deep south mowing some of the thickest bermuda grass. Running a lawn care website, my yard is expected to be the thickest greenest grass around. I was a skeptic to say the least. I even went one step further and used the Neuton to make the first cut of the season. I dropped the blade to the #2 setting (which was a breeze) and set out on the front yard.

Surprisingly the Neuton mower was easier to push than my gas powered self propelled mower. I guess I should mention my ’self propelled’ option isn’t working quite as it should. My guess is that the Neuton is lighter than my gas guzzling mower. It easily ripped through some of the thickest bermuda grass you’ve even seen. I was astonished!

As the bag filled and the clippings backed up onto the blade the mower did bog down. As I hit another patch of the thickest stuff in the yard it died. Puzzled I looked at the battery guage to find it dead. I had only been mowing 15 minutes and knew the battery still had juice. Thinking for a second, I reached down to check the safety key. As the mower went into the stall condition the current spikes and thew a fault condition to keep everyone and everything safe. I popped the key back in and off I went. Even more impressed.

Getting ready to finish the front yard 25 minutes in, the mower dies again. This time it was the battery. Puzzled I pulled out the gas mower and finished the weekend chore. Later that week I had a call with the sales and marketing executive from Neuton. One of the first things I asked him was what kind of grass is this mower designed to cut. To sum it up he said that some of the thicker southern grasses, like bermuda, st. augastine, and zoysia, will wear the battery out quicker than the other grasses found around the country. “Good answer” I said, because this baby cut some of the thickest bermuda I’ve got but couldn’t last for the entire lawn. If you’re interested the entire call can be found here where I asked several other questions you may be interested in if you’re thinking of purchasing a Neuton mower.

So to answer your question: Yes, this mower can cut grass.

Neuton Exchange Program

One of the more unique programs you might be interested in is the Neuton Exchange Program. Essentially what happens is your local municipality will contact Neuton. A venue will be chosen where anyone with a gas mower can stop by and drop their old clunker in the dumpster and walk away with a brand new Neuton mower for only $100. It turns out that your local government ends up subsidizing the rest of the cost of the mower. Cities like Los Angeles, where smog is an on going battle, can’t get these Neuton mowers fast enough.

Conclusion

If you’re one of the 54 million gas mower users and thinking about making the switch you really should consider a Neuton mower. These mowers aren’t for everyone as I found out with my bermuda grass. However if you have a lawn smaller than a third of an acre and have grass other than bermuda, St. Augustine, or zoysia this might be a perfect fit. The mower is compact, easy to store, comes with a full line of accessories including extra batteries, trimmer / edging attachment, and one of my favorites the stripping attachment which will give you that ‘baseball’ field look.

Crunchy Bermuda

Got some patches or really dry bermuda grass that hurt to walk on. Maybe you can see the thatch / soil between the burned out shoots of bermuda. Chances are if you’ve got some really dry spots in your yard it’s not getting enough water. One article you might find particularly helpful is How Much Water Does My Grass Need.

Weedy Bermuda

Another tell tail sign your grass might not be healthy are weeds. If you’ve not implemented a strict weed control regimen into your lawn care routine, maybe it’s time to start. Weeds thrive in soil that is not conditioned to well. If your soil is healthy your grass will be healthy and the weeds will die off. If you’re looking for an organic solution to weed control you might consider broadcast spreading some sugar on your lawn. Otherwise there are several commercial weed control products to help you rid your lawn of pesky weeds.

Seed Head Bermuda

Bermuda grass that is stressed out will start throwing seed heads only a couple of days after mowing. These cause your grass to appear like it needs mowing again but is actually a sign your grass is in distress. What I’ve found is that most lawns are in pretty good shape and only have a couple of patches where seed heads are prevalent. If your lawn is covered in seed heads you’ve got a lot of work ahead of you to get your grass back in shape.

These products are not as easy to find as the chemical herbicides and are considerably more expensive. In many cases these organic weed control products can cost 5-7 times more than man-made herbicides. The question that many face is if the organic weed control efforts worth the extra cash? This is probably a personal decision about how one believes the environment is affected by man-made chemical herbicides. Chemical herbicides do degrade over time, but are a hazard to aquatic life if run off occurs into rivers or streams. Responsible use can minimize those hazards, although not entirely eliminate them.

Organic weed control is the safest way to deal with a pesky weed control problem so the answer to the question might be to consider an investment in organic weed killers as an investment in our environment.

Perhaps the most responsible choice is to practice lawn care techniques that allow the minimum number of weeds to grow. Establish a rich thick lawn, cut the lawn higher throughout the year to discourage weed seed from reaching the soil and germinating. Also one can use organic weed control sparingly as a spot control to quickly and aggressively stamp out weeds and prevent them from spreading.

There are other ways to use organic weed control measures. Areas that are habitually infested with weeds could have mulch applied to prevent growth. Strawberry farms often use porous sheets that enable rain water to reach the soil, but block sunlight from the weed seeds that may lie beneath it.

Tree rings are a popular way to use organic weed control measures for areas that are often a breeding spot for weeds. These porous sheets around trees enable moisture to permeate the soil while preventing weeds. An organic weed control measure that can be applied to dandelions which are a nuisance weed found throughout the country is to apply a spoon full of salt which will result in a quick kill. The ultimate organic weed control solution is to pull the offenders out of the ground. Be careful to pull the root completely out. This is best applied after a rainfall when the soil is moist. Organic weed control is practiced regularly will serve to protect our environment.

Weeds are generally divided into two categories. There are broad leaf weeds and weedy grasses. The weedy grasses are composed of several types, but by far the king of the weedy grasses is crabgrass. The broad leaf weeds are characterized by such plants as clover, dandelions and plantain.

To further complicate the weed control challenge, weeds are also characterized as annual, biannual and perennial with certain weed varieties occurring in the spring and other varieties occurring in the fall. Weed control is a year round challenge, but the good news is that weed killers and weed removal efforts will produce results.

Now let’s examine a few specifics on weed control and how weed killers can help. First the most effective weed control is a lush lawn. Mowing the lawn a bit higher particularly in the summer months, often prohibits many weed seeds from reaching the soil where they can germinate. A thick lawn maintained at a height of 2½ to 3 inches will greatly assist in weed control. Certain grass types act as their own weed control mechanism. For instance Zoysia grass provides natural weed control because of it’s natural thickness. Weed killer is often not required on a lawn that has a thick Zoysia grass.

Annual weeds can often be controlled through the application of a preemergent herbicide which acts to control weeds by preventing the seeds from germinating. A pre-emergent must be applied two-three weeks prior to spring for effective weed control. A pre-emergent can also be applied in the fall for weed control of perennial weeds.

After weeds have developed there are a number of effective herbicides available at local nurseries or other retail outlets that can be used to kill weeds. Granules can be used as well as liquid sprays. When used properly both are effective methods of weed control. Granules are effective for a small lawn if applied over the entire area with a rotary or drop spreader. However for a larger lawn it may be cost prohibitive to treat an entire area and weed killer can be applied selectively in specific spots by using a liquid spray canister that usually holds a gallon or two. Liquid weed killers can also be applied to an entire lawn or in selective areas using a product that will enable it to be dispensed using a garden hose.

The major lawn service companies tend to use liquid sprays because it is easy to carry about in small tanker vehicles and can be quickly applied either to treat an entire lawn or for spot applications to in troublesome areas control and kill weeds.

If you chose to do it yourself, make sure you follow the directions carefully as one wants only to kill weeds, not the lawn grasses. Also, make sure you give a wide berth to garden areas where food crops will be raised or to areas where ornamental plants are growing.

Herbicides to control weeds generally have specific instructions on when to apply them. If using one of these products to kill weeds pay close attention to the time of day and conditions that are necessary for effective application. For granular applications the product needs to stick to the leaves of the weeds so it is generally best to apply in the early morning when dew has coated the ground or after the lawn has been watered. However, any rain too soon after application will significantly reduce the product’s ability to effectively to kill weeds. Liquid weed kill products obviously have the moisture necessary to cause the herbicide to stick to the leaves of weeds, but as with the granular products any rain too soon after application will diminish the effectiveness of the weed killer. Avoid spraying in windy conditions as the herbicide can drift and kill or stunt the growth of garden crops or ornamental flowers.

Shady areas where it is more difficult to grow grass are most susceptible to weed infestations. These areas generally demand more attention to control weeds. It is hoped that these words will help the reader to control and kill weeds – happy hunting!

Aerating opens the soil by pulling out small plugs of soil about 3-5 inches deep and then depositing them on the surface to eventually decompose and disintegrate back into the ground. Make sure you leave them on the ground to decompose. This provides the opportunity for the grass root systems to acquire the nutrients, water and air that are essential for growth. Loose soils allow the roots systems to penetrate more deeply into the soil and become stronger and more resilient if they have to fight off the effects of drought or disease. Soil microorganisms become more abundant and help in breaking down and preventing the formation of thatch in the lawn. Aerating destroys heavy thatch in the coring process and aids in adding this nutrient rich compost back into the soil.

Aerating is an ecological friendly endeavor. Water is more readily absorbed by loose soils. Fertilizers which are subject to run off and contaminate adjoining water sources are less likely to run off because the loose soil more readily absorbs the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that is contained in the fertilizers that are normally applied to lawns. Obviously the more fertilizer that ultimately is absorbed by the root system the more healthy the grass will be. Pesticides that may be applied to a lawn also become more effective in loose soil. Earth worm activity is promoted and after several succeeding years of aeration, it is likely that a year can be skipped.

Seeding after aeration will produce excellent growth and any compost that is spread will settle into the small holes as a result of the coring process and add substantial fertility to the soil.

Aerating is a win-win proposition for the soil and the environment as well as the owner of a lawn that will be the envy of all who gaze upon it.

Once it is determined that aeration is necessary, one must determine how to do it. The preferred method is called “core aeration”. It requires a special machine that removes small plugs of soil as it moves along. These plugs are normally ½ to ¾ of an inch in length and are generally spaced 6-8 inches apart. These are generally heavy machines which are available at rental centers and it will take a small truck or trailer to move it. Often rental centers will deliver the machine to you. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the machine before beginning. They are not hard to operate, but a short orientation from a rental center employee might avoid a disaster if you haven’t used an aerator before. The machine is self propelled and moves the same as a lawn mower although it is a bit heavier. It is recommended that the lawn be “cored” first in one direction and then again perpendicular to the original line of coring. The small plugs of soil will be deposited on the ground and in a week or two will gradually disintegrate and disappear. Do not aerate if the soil is excessively wet. It should be a bit damp though as this facilitates the process. After aerating an opportunity is provided to over seed your lawn or to apply a top dressing if needed.

The core aerator will generally extend several inches into the ground. Be careful if you have cable systems, electrical wires or irrigation systems close to the surface. An aerator will destroy an sprinkler head if it is run over it.

Aeration promotes a healthy lawn and vigorous growth, the benefits of aeration when it is necessary will be easily recognizable during the growing season and you will be rewarded with a lush lawn.

Do not begin to remove thatch if the soil is wet. Wait until it is relatively dry to avoid pulling up the grass you are nurturing.

It is recommended that you cut your lawn to about half of its normal height before using your rotary mower with a dethatching blade. You can also use a mower that is specifically designed to remove thatch. These are normally available at local rental centers. In every case, one should be aware that this method will temporarily scar your lawn. If you have an abnormal amount of thatch, such as more than an inch, it is recommended that you not attempt to remove all the thatch at one time. Instead remove the thatch by mowing in one direction and then mow perpendicular the next time and remove the thatch in two layers. This will avoid doing permanent harm to your lawn Don’t be worried. It will look bad temporarily, but will recover rapidly. New shoots will begin to grow after the ground is opened up to enable this new growth. This might also be the ideal time to over seed or top dress your lawn. Removing thatch is normally not an annual event and should only be necessary every 3-5 years or perhaps longer. If you are noting a build-up of thatch sooner than that, you should consider bagging your clippings occasionally or check to see that your mulching lawn mower blade is working properly.

You will note that the thatch that is removed will accumulate on you lawn and it needs to be raked and placed in a mulch pile to insure it doesn’t infiltrate back into your lawn again.

Thatch prevents moisture, air and even fertilizer from reaching the grass roots and will cause the grass to become weak and subject it to pests or diseases as the growing season progresses . Springtime is the best time to take a look. Call it your grasses annual exam. Simply bend over and become one with your grass. Part the blades and examine below them to determine how thick the thatch might be. If it’s over a ½ inch you could have a problem. If it’s greater than a one inch, you need to take immediate action. However, there is a relatively simple cure – remove it.

If you don’t have a large lawn, you can use a stiff tined rake and give your lawn a vigorous combing. It will take a bit of effort, but your grass will be appreciative and will reward you with vigorous growth. Make sure that while you are removing the thatch, you are not pulling up too much grass. It’s almost impossible to completely eliminate some grass from being pulled out, but you want to make sure it is minimal. The thatch you have pulled up will be partially decayed organic matter, so it is a good idea to add it to your mulch pile. If you don’t have a mulch pile this could be the start.

You should be able to see the bare ground after thatch removal and your lawn may look a bit ragged after you complete the task, but you have provided a great opportunity for new shoots to develop and will see the results of your efforts in a week or two. Additionally you have made it possible for the grass to obtain the water, fertilizer and air that it needs to thrive. Removing the thatch will insure a healthy lawn throughout the growing season.

John Deere is a leader in manufacturing quality lawn care mowers. They produce reliable, dependable and rugged machines that can provide a lifetime of service. Here are five reasons for purchasing a used John Deere lawn tractor.

1. Someone else has paid for the “new” and you can reap the reward of owning a quality used John Deere lawn tractor without spending the money for “new”.

2. The same quality, performance, dependability and reliability of manufacturing is available in a used John Deere lawn tractor as in a new model or a generic lawn mower.

3. Parts, maintenance and servicing are available from a licensed and trained John Deere dealer – not someone who decided to open a business in their garage and knows a little about a lot and not much about anything.

4. Your used John Deere lawn tractor will outlast the many generic models on the market that are built to look good, but are not durable enough to stand the test of time.

5. A used John Deere lawn tractor is adjusted, serviced, refurbished and placed in a “like new” condition before being placed in the hands of a purchaser.

6. Finally, it’s a “John Deere” and all who own one are just a little bit smarter than the average.

Once you’ve decided that a used John Deere lawn tractor is a wise choice and investment, you will be amazed at the assortment of attachments that are available. These are quality, rugged attachments that are specifically designed to meet the demand of years of use around your home and property. You can choose from a wide variety of front blades, rear blades, mid-mount blades, snow blowers, thatchers, aerators or spreaders. A used John Deere lawn tractor presents the user with a variety of options that will meet the particular requirements that you have. Many used John Deere tractors have hardly been used to their full potential. In fact some models of John Deere used lawn tractors are almost mini-dozers and can push, pull, haul and perform many more tasks than a ordinary riding mower.

You will also be the proud owner of a distinctive green and yellow tractor that has the John Deere logo which announces your class and intelligence. You will be further comforted by the fact that your used John Deere lawn tractor was an amazing value when compared to a newer product. It has all the features of new, but without the “new price”. Additionally, your John Deere dealer will provide you with a warranty that will provide you with the assurance that your used John Deere lawn tractor will provide you with reliable service for a long time to come.

So what are you waiting for? Buy a quality used John Deere lawn tractor.  You should really consider a John Deere Model 2305!