Mowing Bermuda Grass
Mowing Bermuda grass is often the most difficult grass to mow. The reason is because more often than not the wrong lawn mower is used. Bermuda grass needs to be cut to a height of 1 - 1.5 inches. Most rotary lawn mowers aren’t capable of mowing that low without scalping the lawn.
Scalping is what happens when a wheel on your rotary mower drops into a small rut and causes the blade to dip down and scalp the grass. When your bermuda is scalped a half moon shape appears where the blade has torn into the lower section of grass which is quite unsightly not to mention very stressful on your lawn.
To keep your bermuda from getting scalped a reel mower is about the only real option. If you’re stuck with a rotary mower your only option is to raise the blade. This will keep your lawn from being scalped but won’t allow you to get the nice low even cut like we enjoy on the golf course. While reel mowers are more expensive they do provide a much more even cut, lower to the ground (in the sweet spot for bermuda), and will never scalp your grass.
In either case, reel or rotary mower, keep your blades sharp. You should sharpen your mower blade at least once per year. This will keep the blades from being ripped which will in turn keep your lawn disease free and use less water. A dull blade can also cause your lawn to look a bit yellow where the blades have been torn. What are you waiting for? Get that blade sharpened!
Mowing Heights Throughout the Year
For the first cut of the year you’ll want to cut off the tips of the grass before its completely out of dormancy. This will expose the ground to the sun and begin warming the soil. Scalping the grass to the ground is not recommended nor is burning the dead grass.
A good starting point in the early spring is the 1″ range. As the summer wears on your may consider raising the blade up to 2″. It’s critical that you never remove more that 1/3 of the blade of grass, so if you miss a week you’ll need to raise your blade to keep from really stressing out your lawn. In the fall you’ll want to let your bermuda go dormant without excessive mowing.
Bagging Bermuda Grass
A lot of research has been conducted on whether bagging bermuda grass is beneficial. It has been shown that leaving the clippings on the lawn will return nitrogen to the soil and eventually save you money on fertilizer. It has also been shown that your lawn is not any more likely to be disease prone or thatch problems. Let the clipping naturally decompose.
When and what do I fertilize my bermuda with?
I am starting a bremuda lawn this summer. I have a 48″ Kabuto zero turn. My yard is not level. I wonder if the zero turn with a floating deck will scalp. I have thought about a self propelled 27″ or 30″ reel mower. A true cut, Mc clane or a gravely cl30 which is about $4000… any comments? thanks
The 30″ reel mower is the #1 choice. That will keep your lawn looking great and keep it from getting scalped. The zero turns are great mowers but you’ll have to lift the blades to keep it from cutting half moons in your lawn.
If you are going to use a reel mower, it WILL make your bermudagrass lawn look great and close cut. HOWEVER, be sure you have a shop nearby that will service it. You need someone who can sharpen the blades and properly adjust the bedknife. These mowers are temperamental. You need someone to work on it and here in West Georgia, they are hard to find. It got to the point with my McLane that I had to adjust or fix something everytime I mowed. Also, if you are going to cut your Bermuda below an inch, be prepared to cut at least two times a week (probably more ) during the hot summer growing season. This is easier said than done with rain, life and such that will interfere
thanks for your input, I have just about decided to use my zero turn and just mow it at 1.5 to 2″…. it weighs is at 1094 lbs which is a lot of weight as well. Have also thought about a walker 32″ cut walk behind with a mulching deck.. any comments on these ideas and does anyone have experience with zero and walkbehinds
I made the mistake of missing a week on my regular mowing. When I mowed this past weekend, I didn’t raise my blade, now my beautiful green bermuda turned into a brown crunchy grass. Is there any suggestions as to what to do save the nice green grass or am I out of luck?
Hello,
I have recently taken over the maintenance duties of a cemetery. The previous worker has cut the Bermuda grass high, which has lead to the thatch growing up to the point where the grave markers have all but disappeared. The edges of the grave markers steeply rise so the graves almost are in little pits in the ground.
I am in Northern Calif. and it is now Sept. so the hot days will soon be over. I mention this because I learned to not cut the grass low during the winter months.
However, I must cut the thatch down lower.
So I began today by lowering the cutting height almost to the point of scalping, and I edged the grave markers heavily by cutting around them at a slant to make the edges less steep. This meant that I cut into the soil in many places.
My question is, will the grass thank me? Or is this type of cutting going to ruin the grass for the season? We have maybe another month of good hot weather.
Oh, and I water an hour and 15 minutes every other day, approx. 1.5-2 acres of cemetery grave markers.
Thank you very much for any advice you may give me.
Frans
I have been mowing my bermuda grass at 3 inches and when i mow it i get all of the green. Am i mowning it to high ? If i am when should i mow it closer and at what height ? What type of fertilizer should i use ? Should i aierate the ground during the summer before watering ? Thank you very much for any help you can give me .
I live in N central Arkansas (Ozarks) and am trying to figure out the best way and equipment to cut a 2000 ft x 250 ft sod airstrip. The strip is in a short thatch varity of bermuda (to the extent that I’ve been able to control the misc weeds and fescue, anyway) and is smooth. I’ve rolled it with a heavy roller at least once every year. This is the end of the strip’s second year since being planted (seeded) and I have what I would estimate to be about 70% coverage (better in some places, lighter in others).
A reel type mower does not look like a workable option because of the rocks and gravel that “grow” out of the soil in this area. I am currently using a 60″ finish mower set at 2-1/2″. That’s not as close as I would like to cut, but set any lower, the mower blades pick up so much gravel that it’s impossible to keep my blades sharp. I’ve been unable to find flat blades that do not create the suction. I’m also considering a flail mower, but don’t know if it would give me a good enough cut.
This is a private strip (read no maintenance budget), so cost control is a controlling issue. Cosmetics are a concern, but not a controlling factor.
Any help in the form of suggestions and/or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Gerald