If you've ever walked through your local home improvement store you've seen the racks and racks of fertilizer.  There are many brands and many types and each uses a slightly different blend of nutrients to arrive at the final fertilizer.

A few of the nutrients used to formulate bermuda fertilizer are urea, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, urea formaldehyde.   Each of these chemicals provide a quick shot of nitrogen which thick lush bermuda lawns need more than phosphorus and potassium.

Nearly every fertilizer you find on the shelf these days will be in a granular form.  This allows quick application to the lawn with a broadcast spreader and will last up to 3 months before another application is necessary.

The First Application

Bermuda grass goes dormant during the winter months.  It won't come out of dormancy until the ground temperature hits a balmy 65ºF.  It's likely that your grass will be about 50% greened up at this point for a visual reference.  This is the perfect time to drop your first application of fertilizer on your lawn.  It's likely it mid-April when this first application will be needed as a point of reference.

For this first application you're looking for a high nitrogen content.  That means the first number should be high like 31-3-9.  However a product that has 29-3-4 is going to give very similar results.  If all the products have a high nitrogen content pick your fertilizer based on price.  The higher premiums you'll pay will likely add in slow release nitrogen to keep your lawn green between feedings.

Subsequent Applications

Your bermuda grass is going to thrive off fertilizer.  You'll want to apply another bag of bermuda fertilizer in 6 - 8 weeks (June 15).  Drop a third bag 6 - 8 (August 15) weeks later and you'll have the greenest lawn in the neighborhood.

Winterizer

Again depending on your area of the country you'll want to drop a bag of winterizer on your lawn in the mid-September to mid-October time frame.  The idea is to get the fertilizer down and watered in before the grass goes back into dormancy.  This will feed and protect your lawn during those brutal winter months.

Weed Control

One area we failed to mention earlier was about weed control.  Several fertilizer brands out there mix in some weed control products like HALTS.  It's likely you'll find a winterizer with a weed control product.  That will be your best bet for the winterizer fertilizer application.  In the mid to late February time frame you'll want to consider a broad leaf weed controller like HALTS to keep your lawn weed free.  If you're lucky you can mix this in with your first application if the grass has greened up enough.

A healthy well fed Bermuda lawn is a weed free lawn.

Think about the hassle! An extra gas can, extra spot near the end of the garage away from the hot water heater, oil from the store, gas from the gas station, and then the mixing. So you take your half a gallon of gas and figure out how much oil to pour in. You pour a little, check the line, pour a little more, check the line. Doh! To much oil, now what! Ah well maybe next time. The problem is the next time might be next season since that half a gallon of gas fills up the trimmer and blower all year long. Who knows when the gas goes bad. Its just an all around in convenience.

Whats in this stuff?

It's formulated with synthetic oil to eliminate plug fouling and smoke, the ethanol-free fuel helps extend the life of plastic and rubber engine components. Compared to a traditional gas/oil mixture, 50 FUEL™ contains an advanced synthetic lubricant that withstands higher temperatures, which is better for engine performance. It also contains a stabilizer that assures its consistency for two years, making it ideal for winterizing and storage. On the contrary, traditional gas/oil mixtures blended by consumers tend to deteriorate after several months, requiring removal from the equipment at the end of each season.

Get some today!

In my mind there is no reason not to buy a case of Fuel 50. It lasts for years, and keeps your 2 cycle engine from needing repair, basically guaranteeing that your lawn equipment will run like its suppose to for years to come. An entire case of 50 Fuel costs $27. That's ~$4 a can. Heck, a gallon of gas these days costs $4, then you still need oil and an extra can.

If you need a 50:1 fuel mixture check out this deal on Amazon.  This price is for 6 cans of 50 Fuel.

If you need 40 fuel you can actually buy it by the can.

50 Fuel for FREE!

In order to complete this review I asked if I could get a sample. I totally expected a single can, but instead I got an entire case! There's no way I can use an entire case in the next 2 years, so I've got 5 cans to give away for free. I've also got a case of 40 Fuel ( 40:1 mixture ) as well! All you need to do is leave a comment below to get your free can of 50 Fuel. It really is that easy. I'll even pay for shipping. By the way, I tried 50 Fuel in my lawn equipment this weekend and it's never run better!  Anyone need an extra gas can?

The major benefit of aeration is to loosen compacted soils. If the ground is not composed of clay soils, subjected to children or animals moving about or automobiles that may drive on it, the lawn may not require aeration. Ground subjected to winter freezing and thawing or that is home to a healthy earthworm population may remain open and not require aeration. Wet areas often become compacted and will need to be aerated. A simple inspection can determine if aeration is necessary. Soil that is subjected to heavy foot traffic should probably be aerated annually.

Aerating opens the soil by pulling out small plugs of soil about 3-5 inches deep and then depositing them on the surface to eventually decompose and disintegrate back into the ground. Make sure you leave them on the ground to decompose. This provides the opportunity for the grass root systems to acquire the nutrients, water and air that are essential for growth. Loose soils allow the roots systems to penetrate more deeply into the soil and become stronger and more resilient if they have to fight off the effects of drought or disease. Soil microorganisms become more abundant and help in breaking down and preventing the formation of thatch in the lawn. Aerating destroys heavy thatch in the coring process and aids in adding this nutrient rich compost back into the soil.

Aerating is an ecological friendly endeavor. Water is more readily absorbed by loose soils. Fertilizers which are subject to run off and contaminate adjoining water sources are less likely to run off because the loose soil more readily absorbs the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that is contained in the fertilizers that are normally applied to lawns. Obviously the more fertilizer that ultimately is absorbed by the root system the more healthy the grass will be. Pesticides that may be applied to a lawn also become more effective in loose soil. Earth worm activity is promoted and after several succeeding years of aeration, it is likely that a year can be skipped.

Seeding after aeration will produce excellent growth and any compost that is spread will settle into the small holes as a result of the coring process and add substantial fertility to the soil.

Aerating is a win-win proposition for the soil and the environment as well as the owner of a lawn that will be the envy of all who gaze upon it.

Fescue grass is identified in two major categories as fine-leaved or broad-leaved. The broad leaved Fescue, sometimes referred to as a tall fescue is a bit more heat and drought tolerant than the needle leaved or fine leaved variety. Nevertheless, Fescue grasses will withstand cooler climates and thrive well with minimal maintenance. Fescue grasses generally start their growth with seed, although sod is available and will thrive if installed properly. In each case the Fescues will provide a wonderful carpet in shady areas where many grasses will not perform well. Of all the cool season grasses available, the Fescues are the one variety that performs well in areas that are well treed and hence shady. It should be noted that the broad leaved or tall variety may suffer from some winter die-back in the colder climate regions of the far northern United States.

Since Fescues are a cool season grass, they will not grow well in hot climates and will wither and turn brown if exposed to severe heat or drought. Even if watered well, the Fescues will not provide a carpet of green if exposed to significant heat and sun.

There are well over 30 varieties of Fescue that are adapted to variations of local climate and the desires of the grower, but they retain their cool weather quality no matter the particular variety. Generally the Fescues grow somewhat clumpy and have a course blade although there is a finer bladed variety available. Fescue seed germinates quickly and the grass is well suited to areas that receive considerable use such as sports fields, playgrounds or well used yards where children or athletes are constantly trampling the grass. This grass is often used as an erosion control covering because it will grow well even in soils that are tightly compacted. This grass is generally resistant to pests although it will suffer if weeds are not controlled.

Fescue grasses should be mowed to a height of about two inches. Mowing the grass too short will make it more susceptible to browning during the summer months and if it is allowed to grow too tall the root system will be subjected to stress and the grass will be weakened.

The Fescue grass varieties are a great choice for most of the areas of the United States outside of the South. Several varieties can be mixed together to insure the most vigorous and satisfactory growth. Cool weather and shady areas are the friends of Fescue grasses. Heat and drought are the enemies.

About Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is a wonderful selection for anyone who lives in a southern climate and desires a turf grass that can withstand the harsh sun and survive with minimal amounts of water. Bermuda grass care is simple: it is sun-loving – it does not do well in shady areas - as well as being naturally heat and drought resistant and is therefore a great type of grass for those living in hot, humid or somewhat arid climates. It is a low growing wiry grass that provides good ground cover and withstands constant use from being walked upon or being treated harshly by pets.

Bermuda grass spreads naturally by producing seeds and it can spread through above ground shoots called stolons or below ground shoots referred to as rhizomes. This ability to spread is both a blessing and a curse for some. While the aggressive growth of Bermuda grass insures a wide ground covering, the below ground rhizomes can also infiltrate flower or garden beds and be the source of frustration for many.

Bermuda grass is a perennial grass and therefore reseeding is not often necessary. It has a rich green tone with a medium to fine texture and is well suited for lawns. It is often the grass that grows on the putting surfaces or fairways of golf courses throughout the south. It should be noted that the particular variety of Bermuda grass used for putting surfaces is a hybrid which was developed for that particular purpose and is only available as sod. The normal variety of Bermuda grass grown in the southern regions of the United States is available in over a dozen varieties and can be selected based on the particular circumstance of each purpose. For instance, a prospective grower can select a variety based on wear tolerance, color, suitability for a slightly cooler climate in the more northern reaches of the south or mowing the height desired.

During cooler months Bermuda grass turns brown and while the root system is still alive, the blades of the grass appear dead. For some, this is a major disadvantage of this grass. Nevertheless, the moment spring and summer begin to arrive the grass will return to green and grace the owner with a lush carpet to enjoy.

Minimal maintenance, aggressive growth, sun, heat and drought tolerance are the strengths of Bermuda grass. The weaknesses are the inability to grow well in the shade and the brown color that descends upon it in the winter months.

Taking Care of Bermuda Grass

If you're a home owner looking to improve you lawn, here are some bermuda grass care articles that will certainly help you out in caring for bermuda grass.

Is My Bermuda Grass Healthy?
Mowing Bermuda Grass
Bermuda Dollar Spot
Watering Bermuda Grass
Aerating Bermuda Grass

Hopefully the bermuda grass section of the Lawn Care Guide have helped you understand how to produce a greener and thicker lawn. If you see something we've missed please leave a comment or question below. Also check out the lawn care and lawn maintenance sections of our site.

Cool Season Types of Grass

Cool season grasses include the Rye and Fescue varieties as well as Bentgrasses. These types of grass are well suited to the north of an imaginary line from central Virginia across the country to southern California, although there is a fairly broad transition area on either side of that line where either warm of cool season grasses may thrive.

Cool season grasses are commonly established through the use of seed whereas the warmer season grasses are more often established through the use of plugs or sod.

Air temperature, soil temperature, moisture and soil type are the major determinants for the type of grass that can be successfully cultivated in a particular region of the country. The cool season grasses experience optimum growth when soil temperatures are between 50° and 65°F and air temperatures are between 60° and 75°F. One can easily see that these air and soil temperature ranges exist in most of the United States so one has to examine the local grasses that are thriving in a particular region to judge what might be best for their purposes. Areas affected often by drought might do well to pick a warmer season grass and if drought is not a problem then a cooler season grass might be more appropriate.

Best Cool Season Grass Types

Tall Fescue Grass - This is probably the most beautiful type of grass out there. If it dense enough it can provide a good weed and disease resistant lawn. It needs plenty of water to remain dark green, but makes for a stunning lawn year round.

Rye Grass - Rye grass comes in Annual and Perennial. Both are cool season grasses and are well adapted to sunny conditions and moderate temperatures. Annual rye grass is mostly used to overseen warm season grasses to provide fall and winter color.

Bentgrass - This grass type is primarily used on golf course putting greens. Bentgrass is generally not found in the majority of lawns as is extremely expensive to maintain. Bentgrass prefers full sun but is tolerant of some shade.

Kentucky Bluegrass - This type of grass grows best during the fall, winter, and spring months as do most cool season grass. Kentucky bluegrass prefers full sun but can tolerate some shade throughout the day.

Warm Season Types of Grass

The warm season grasses include Bermuda, Zoysia, and Buffalo grasses. These grass types grow best in the southern portion of the United Stats, but there is a fairly wide transition line exists that is impacted by a number of local climatic conditions.

Warmer season grass types experience browning periods when they become dormant due to cool temperatures whereas cool season grasses will maintain their green color throughout the year.  The warmer season grasses experience their best growing periods when soil temperatures are between 70° and 90°F and air temperatures are between 80° and 95 °F.

Since the warmer season grasses may experience browning when exposed to cool temperatures that may be a fact that influences a decision on the type of grass to grow. For those that wish to maintain a green lawn throughout the year, an alternative is to plant annual rye during the dormant periods of the warm season grasses. Annual Rye seeds and grows relatively easily and will gradually disappear as the temperatures begin to rise and the warms season grasses begin to spring to life.

Before selecting a grass for any particular area it is important to evaluate the characteristics for each seasonal grass and compare that to the climate in the region where it will be grown. As with all things in life there are advantages and disadvantages for each grass type.

Best Warm Season Grass Types

Bermuda Grass - Bermuda grass can survive the harshest of summers and is therefore extremely drought resistant. This grass spreads easily and is a perennial grass which means you won't need to reseed every year.

Zoysia Grass - Zoysia forms one of the thickest turfs you'll ever see. Once its well established it is nearly impossible for weeds to penetrate which is a major benefit of zoysia lawns. Another major benefits is that it doesn't grow quickly so that means a lot less time mowing the grass.

St Augustine Grass - Florida and Texas are the most common areas of the country to find St. Augustine grass. This type of grass flourishes in sunny and humid conditions. It forms a very thick turf which is a pleasure to walk on when watered properly.

Bahai Grass - This grass type is also quite popular in Florida and southern California, but unlike St Augustine it is much more resistant to drought. Aside from being drought resistant it is also very resistant to bugs and diseases.

Buffalo Grass - Buffalo grass probably the only grass that is native to the United States. It grows extremely well in the Great Plains and is also drought resistant. This grass spreads very easily which helps form a great lawn in no time at all.

Carpet - Carpetgrass is a creeping type of grass that loves wet soil conditions. Carpet grass is planted from seeds or sprigs and is native to the interior Gulf states.

Centipede - Centipede grass produces a very nice looking lawn that is virtually weed free and very dense. This makes centipede lawns very attractive. While centipede grass is slow growing it's very aggressive which gives it the aforementioned characteristics.

Fortunately for all of us, technology has lent us a hand at battling weeds. A quick application of a preemergent herbicide product and all those pesky weeds will lay dormant another year. Yes, dormant. See a preemergent weed control product isn't a pre emergent weed killer. It keeps the weeds from growing which is why it's necessary for you to put down a pre emergent herbicide product every year.

When to apply pre emergent herbicides:

Simple! March 15th & September 15th. Basically you want to control summer weeds and winter weeds. As soil temperature rise above 50°F the summer weeds begin to take root and begin growing. The major offenders, crabgrass and clover, will not emerge until the soil is consistently over 50°F. If you do live in a warmer area you may need to apply your pre emergent herbicide before March 15th, so it's not quite as simple as I first made it sound.

Late in the growing season the weeds begin to set new seed. This is where you want to catch any late growth with the application in September. Remember keeping on top of the weeds will save you much time and aggravation next spring when the lawn mowing season begins again.

Caution: Application of a preemergent herbicide to early may cause the elements to dilute or wash away the herbicide and allow the weeds to grow uninhibited. Application of the herbicide after the weeds start to grow will not stop the growth since its already rooted.

Sharpen Your Blade

Imagine for a minute you've just woken up from a good nights sleep. You walk to the bathroom to take care of the three 'S's. After a nice hardy #2, and a nice hot shower, you hop out to shave your face. To your chagrin you have to use a year old shaver. Well, now you know how your lawn feels when you don't sharpen your lawn mower blade. Using a dull blade to mow your grass could rip any new growth out by the roots and will certainly leave your grass with jagged edges. Do yourself and your lawn a favor and sharpen the mower blade at least once a year.

Mower Blade Height

Rule #1: Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass blade in any one mowing. If your wife, kids, work, rain, or your general laziness keep you from staying on top of your lawn mowing schedule, raise up the cutting height so you only remove 1/3 of the blade. A couple of days later, lower the blade and remove another 1/3 until you've got your lawn back to its normal length. That'll teach you to procrastinate. It's either that or break rule #1. If you break rule #1 then your grass will probably lose to much moisture and the sun will burn it up the next day.

If you're not sure how long your grass should be simply reference the table below. These are only ideal lengths for your grass as each lawn is different. Use these as a guideline on where to start. If in doubt raise up your blade a 1/2" just to be safe.

Generally speaking its probably sufficient to mow your grass once a week. On occasion it may be necessary to mow your grass after about 4-5 days especially after heavy rains and application of lawn fertilizer.

Mowing Patterns

The most simple pattern to mow your grass is in straight rows, starting with the longest side of your yard. This will help keep your rows nice a straight and give your lawn a tidy look. As time progresses you should consider a hefty upgrade to the diagonal pattern. This gives your lawn a very professional look and many of your neighbors may just think you've hired a lawn service.

One other important note about mowing patterns. From week to week you should try to cut your rows or diagonals in different directions. This keeps your grass growing in an upright fashion. This also keeps you from forming grooves or ruts in your lawn. Another ofter forgotten benefit is your sanity. Mowing your grass in the same direction keeps your brain from having to learn new tricks.

Bagging vs. Mulching

By following Rule #1 and not bagging your lawn, you'll save you a lot of time and reduce the amount of fertilizer your lawn needs by up to 25%. A mulching lawn mower is also a great investment as it will finely chop your grass clips and allow then to fall down between the blades of grass. If you've got kids or pets you may have to bag your clippings in order to keep them from tracking grass back into the house. If bagging your grass is a necessity, remember to check your bag often to keep grass from clumping when the bag gets full. Also ensure you dispose of your clippings properly. It is illegal in many places to send your clippings to the dump. A compost pit is a great alternative if you have the space.

Winter Lawn Mowing

The last few times you mow your grass, most likely in November, lower your lawn mower an inch below your normal setting. I always recommend lowering in half an inch increments, but sometimes your grass just stop growing. In either case, make absolutely certain you bag your lawn clippings to ensure you pick up any weed seeds, so come spring your lawn doesn't look like a mine field. Bagging your lawn clippings will also reduce the thatch and provide much better air circulation for your lawn.

Lawn Fertilizer

Applying winterizing fertilizers just before your grass goes dormant will provide a boost of potassium to your lawn. This nutrient will make your lawn more winter hardy. If your lawn has been tormented with mushrooms or moss a light application of dolomite or agriculture lime will help adjust the ph of the soil and get those fungicides under control. Come the spring if you see them taking root again, apply another thin coat of dolomite to nip them in the bud.

Aerate

After a long summer of lawn activity your soil can become compacted leading to a barrage of issues. A quick tip to determine if you need to aerate is to try to insert a wooden match stick into your soil. If it won't go in without force, its time to call in the professionals. Not really, but it's not a bad idea if it's to cold. Head down to your local hardware or home improvement store and rent the right equipment. Forget those silly spikey shoes, they don't work. You want to rent an aerator the pulls the plugs to the surface to do the job right. Watering your lawn a couple of days before hand will ensure your lawn is moist and easy to work with.

Overseed with Rye Grass

If you find your dormant lawn unpleasant to look at there is an option. Overseeding your lawn with rye grass can keep your lawn looking green most of the winter months. Overseeding works great on all warm season grasses, but Bermuda grass tolerates overseeding better than Centipede, Zoysia, and St. Augustine. You'll want to overseed your lawn about 2 weeks before the first frost. You do have one choice to make and that is between Annual or Perennial rye grass. Annual rye grass germinates much faster than perennial, but perennial is much more tolerant of the cold, disease, and drought.

Weed Control

Believe it or not but leaves are the #1 cause of weeds in lawns during the winter months. Leafs block the sun light and air from reaching your grass which encourages disease. Rake the leaves, or pay a lawn service to get the mountains of leaves out of your backyard, your grass will thank you. A quick application of a pre-emergent week killer will keep the weeds from taking root during the fall and winter months. You may want to also consider a weed and feed product, which includes a winter fertilizer. Getting control of the winter weeds that can take root is our #1 winter lawn care tip. If you don't heed any other bit of advice from this article, pick up the leaves and apply a generous helping of weed and feed!