It’s amusing to wonder if one was trying to grow weeds, would grass invade? Well, we all know that is just a dream for those of us that are trying to cultivate a well manicured and beautiful lawn. Weeds, like troubles in life, are a reality. However there are actions that can be taken in the weed control arena to minimize their impact on our lawns. Understanding weeds and their growth patterns is the first step in the weed removal and elimination process. There are a variety of weed control and weed killer products that can assist us in our lawn care endeavor.
Weeds are generally divided into two categories. There are broad leaf weeds and weedy grasses. The weedy grasses are composed of several types, but by far the king of the weedy grasses is crabgrass. The broad leaf weeds are characterized by such plants as clover, dandelions and plantain.
To further complicate the weed control challenge, weeds are also characterized as annual, biannual and perennial with certain weed varieties occurring in the spring and other varieties occurring in the fall. Weed control is a year round challenge, but the good news is that weed killers and weed removal efforts will produce results.
Now let’s examine a few specifics on weed control and how weed killers can help. First the most effective weed control is a lush lawn. Mowing the lawn a bit higher particularly in the summer months, often prohibits many weed seeds from reaching the soil where they can germinate. A thick lawn maintained at a height of 2½ to 3 inches will greatly assist in weed control. Certain grass types act as their own weed control mechanism. For instance Zoysia grass provides natural weed control because of it’s natural thickness. Weed killer is often not required on a lawn that has a thick Zoysia grass.
Annual weeds can often be controlled through the application of a preemergent herbicide which acts to control weeds by preventing the seeds from germinating. A pre-emergent must be applied two-three weeks prior to spring for effective weed control. A pre-emergent can also be applied in the fall for weed control of perennial weeds.
After weeds have developed there are a number of effective herbicides available at local nurseries or other retail outlets that can be used to kill weeds. Granules can be used as well as liquid sprays. When used properly both are effective methods of weed control. Granules are effective for a small lawn if applied over the entire area with a rotary or drop spreader. However for a larger lawn it may be cost prohibitive to treat an entire area and weed killer can be applied selectively in specific spots by using a liquid spray canister that usually holds a gallon or two. Liquid weed killers can also be applied to an entire lawn or in selective areas using a product that will enable it to be dispensed using a garden hose.
The major lawn service companies tend to use liquid sprays because it is easy to carry about in small tanker vehicles and can be quickly applied either to treat an entire lawn or for spot applications to in troublesome areas control and kill weeds.
If you chose to do it yourself, make sure you follow the directions carefully as one wants only to kill weeds, not the lawn grasses. Also, make sure you give a wide berth to garden areas where food crops will be raised or to areas where ornamental plants are growing.
Herbicides to control weeds generally have specific instructions on when to apply them. If using one of these products to kill weeds pay close attention to the time of day and conditions that are necessary for effective application. For granular applications the product needs to stick to the leaves of the weeds so it is generally best to apply in the early morning when dew has coated the ground or after the lawn has been watered. However, any rain too soon after application will significantly reduce the product’s ability to effectively to kill weeds. Liquid weed kill products obviously have the moisture necessary to cause the herbicide to stick to the leaves of weeds, but as with the granular products any rain too soon after application will diminish the effectiveness of the weed killer. Avoid spraying in windy conditions as the herbicide can drift and kill or stunt the growth of garden crops or ornamental flowers.
Shady areas where it is more difficult to grow grass are most susceptible to weed infestations. These areas generally demand more attention to control weeds. It is hoped that these words will help the reader to control and kill weeds – happy hunting!
Love your opening! I think this is one of the biggest issues facing gardeners! I’m constantly battling weeds! Thanks for the tips!
Thank you for the information,it could help some people who may think that they know how to do everything. Anyway,and I hope that you will appreciate my remark. On your ninenth paragraph and on the fifth line you might want to eliminate the world -to- immediately after …to effectively…. Thank you for your input.
Sincerely,
B. Laroche
Can you spray a broad leave weed killer around the first of December?
How can I get herbicide to stick to clover and other weeds? It seems to bead up and roll off the leaves. I have also noticed that I have to use twice as much product to get results. I have been using Ortho weed b gone max. The weeds are actively growing, the soil is moist and the temperatures are in the 70’s.
you need a surfactant. Bonide makes them.
useing msma on po-anna in rye, fescue grass will msma kill rye and fescue.
please respond….paul
I would like to know if there is a single chemical weedkiller available to control speedwell in lawns?
I am not a morning person. i have decided to apply turf builder plus 2 to my lawn.
what time is “early morning”. if i don’t have to get up at 5am, i’d rather not. is 8am too late to be early for fertilizer purposes? i am in southeast michigan. i work 10 to 6 m-f. and i still look forward to sleeping later – to 10 on the weekends.
the guy who cuts is letting it get longer which i hear is good. out of four houses on the corner, mine is the only one that shows weeds as it get longer.
so i’m going to do it. but when? i am trying to follow the directions and i am completely new to this. i bought a spreader with “edge guard”. thank you!!
My husband and I have been gardening together for the past 39 years. Early on we learned about the hazards of herbicides. Therefore we have resisted using them. However, the past ten years whenever we add a new garden area or restore a former area, we have either used grass seed or gone the more expensive route of sod. Sometime early this fall we will be opening our gardens and first floors of both turn of the century cottages to those follks who are physically challenged. We have worked so hard to have lovely sitting areas, bridges, ducks and chickens, many different garden areas and many vistas. My frustration is that no sooner does the sod or seed “take” than the weeds invade! We would dearly love to see gorgeous turf but alas, WEEDS. And of course along with the clover, BEES! I am allergic to bees and must constantly monitor where I step, the shoes I wear in the garden and where my hands are. The honey folks should be thrilled, but I am not.
My question is this: About 6 months to a year ago I read perhaps in the New York Times that Scotts was coming out shortly with some sort of weed killer which solved all the problems with no side effects on us or the environment. Perhaps it is due out in 2011 or 2012. Did anyone see this article? I have not been able to find it. Thanks so much. Cheers. Marjorie
Look Lads!
What matter if a few old weeds appear in the lawn! Its an outdoor area and we must try to resist total control over nature.
My approach is:
Great preparation, well in advance of lawn laying
Good common sense lawn maintenance, regular mowing, avoiding mowing too low, keeping the nutrition up.
The areas surrounding the lawns must be adressed also. If weeds gather here, they will seed into the lawns.
So, to sum up, common sense. Enjoy the lawn without being irritated by it!
yojo? wat best weed killa?u not answer question ..U R useleSS
I have been trying for several years to get my lawn looking good.
Thia year I got serious, and went to Home Depot to speak with the Scotts rep. He recommended several things. Weed & feed $50 bucks.
Grass seed $50 bucks. Weed patch $35 bucks. fertilizer $40 bucks.
I could go on, but your product has given me the best looking weed bed for a lawn that i have seen. I’m worse of than before I started.
How about some good advise for a change, I could really use it.
if you want a dope lawn you’re going to have to spend 1-2 hours per day (MINIMUM!) repairing it. You can’t just dump seeds and let mother nature do her work, mother nature don’t give a fuck.
now is a good time to re-seed if you’re going to do it. You have to water that sonmabitch everyday though. If you plan to overseed you still have to water that area everyday. Go in and hand pick all the weeds out first. Don’t spray any of that garbage herbicide all over your lawn because you won’t be able to plant grass if you do.
thanks for the info, well last year you said,that, to spread weed control products before rain, now, do not do this ? I’m confused ? I used SCOTTS weed & feed, for southern lawns, this season, & more weeds have grown than grass, but last season ( 2010 ) this product worked just fine, this year thumbs down!!!!!!!! I’m not having success , what would be my best move now, I need some help !! I need granuials, used with a broadcast spreader. please help. thanks, lawn services…. ric cairnie lawn services @ lajollaric@yahoo.com please replay
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I am in NC. I have tried the self-help lawn care with mediocre results. Last year I used a commercial lawn service for about the same price that it cost me to do it myself and the yard was beautiful. No weeds, lush green lawn. $60 every 6 to 8 weeks. I used Tru-Green and my neighbor had the Scotts guy come and do his. Both looked great.
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First, don’t put herbicides on your lawn. That’s just being lazy, and those poisons will come back to haunt you.
Second, the definition of weed is a plant that is out of place. Since there are virtually no turf-style grasses that are native my home, Virginia, all the pretty grasses are out of place. They are “weeds” technically. I’m happy to have clover and violets share my lawn with tall fescues and bluegrasses.